Confirm the part fits first
- Hydraulic or electric (EPS): the two are not interchangeable. An EPS rack has no fluid, but may need a scan-tool configuration or calibration after fitting.
- LHD or RHD: usually two separate part numbers for the same model.
- Variable-ratio steering, rear-wheel steering or other steering options: the assembly differs.
- Match the original part number, not just model and year.
This decides whether the part can be fitted at all; no amount of workshop skill fixes the wrong rack.
Record before you remove
| Item | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Steering wheel position | A wheel refitted off-centre is hard to correct with alignment alone |
| Tie-rod thread length and clamp position | Keeps toe close to the original so the car can be driven to the alignment bay |
| Angle between the column intermediate shaft and the rack | Spline or universal joint off by a tooth puts the wheel off-centre |
| Pipe routing, clips and brackets | Prevents rubbing and stretching at full lock |
| Connector and harness fixings | Wrong routing can pull EPS or sensor wiring apart |
Photograph the whole area and the details before dismantling.
Removal and refitting
- Disconnect the battery negative as the manufacturer prescribes; some cars need settings saved first.
- Raise and support the car, front wheels off the ground, and remove the wheels.
- Release the outer tie-rod nuts and separate the joints with a proper puller; do not hammer the steering knuckle.
- Mark the column intermediate shaft before removing its bolt; do not spin the wheel afterwards or the clock spring can be damaged.
- Place a drain tray before opening the pipes; plug the ports to keep dirt out.
- Remove the mounting bolts in the prescribed sequence and note any spacers or washers.
- Refit in reverse order, start all bolts by hand, then tighten to the manual torque.
- Fit new O-rings or seals at pipe joints as specified; do not reuse old ones.
Torque figures, sequences and special tools come from the vehicle manual; this page is a check list, not a substitute.
Four steps after fitting
| Step | What to do | If skipped |
|---|---|---|
| Fill and bleed | Use the specified fluid and bleed procedure | Pump noise, heavy steering, foaming fluid |
| Wheel alignment | Set toe, camber and caster to the manual | Pulling, tyre wear, off-centre wheel |
| Centre the wheel | Hold the wheel straight before locking the column | Wheel off-centre at straight ahead |
| Steering angle calibration | Run the zero or calibration with a scan tool (most ESP cars) | ESP/traction lamp on, assist faults |
EPS racks may also need coding or configuration; some models require online programming.
Sign-off checklist
- Wheel straight and no pull at speed.
- No noise or interference at full lock either side; pipes not stretched.
- Fluid at the correct level, no foam, no leaks.
- No steering or ESP warning lamps.
- Scan tool shows a plausible steering angle at both locks.
- Road test: low-speed full lock, high-speed straight, left and right bends.
Common mistakes
- Refitting without marks and relying on alignment to correct it.
- Arbitrary tie-rod length, leaving toe far out.
- Filling without bleeding, so the pump keeps whining.
- Wrong fluid or mixed fluids.
- Skipping steering angle calibration.
- Delivering an EPS car without configuration.
- Pipe clips left loose, rubbing through and leaking.
Send us your chassis number or original part number and we will confirm the reference.