Listen first
| Sound | When it appears | Suspect first |
|---|---|---|
| Whine or hiss | Cold start, low level, when turning | Low fluid, air ingress, cavitation |
| Continuous hum | Rises with engine speed | Bearing or internal wear |
| Metal scrape or rattle | Idle or when turning | Internal damage, pulley |
| Belt squeal | Cold start, hard acceleration | Belt tension or slip |
Then read the fluid
- Level: below minimum means find the leak first, not just top up.
- Colour: dark fluid is often just old; metal flakes mean wear.
- Foam: air on the suction side or wrong fluid.
- Milky: water ingress or mixed fluids.
Check air ingress and the belt
- Reservoir cap seal, return hose clamps, pump inlet O-ring.
- Reservoir filter, where it can be removed.
- Belt tension, wear and oil contamination.
- Pulley run-out and alignment.
Foam caused by air ingress returns after every bleed; until the suction side is sealed, bleeding will not fix it.
Pressure test and judgement
Test pressure as the manual describes. Low pressure in both directions points first to the pump, belt and fluid; low pressure in one direction only is more typical of an internal rack leak.
A pressure test needs the right adapters and specified engine speed; without them, do not condemn the pump on feel alone.
What to do with a new pump
- Replace the fluid and clean the reservoir and filter.
- Renew the inlet O-ring and hose seals.
- Check and flush the circuit as the manufacturer requires.
- Bleed after fitting, then road test.
With heavy contamination, a new pump on a dirty circuit will wear out again quickly.
Common mistakes
- Using ATF instead of the specified steering fluid, or the reverse, unless the manual allows it.
- Replacing the pump without checking air ingress and the circuit.
- Mistaking belt squeal for pump noise.
- Driving on after the reservoir has run dry.
Send us your chassis number or original part number and we will confirm the reference.
