Find the leak first
| Location | What you see | Usual cause |
|---|---|---|
| Input shaft / column joint | Oil trace on the upper rack or bulkhead | Aged shaft seal |
| Rack end, inside the boot | Bulging boot with oil inside | Failed internal seal |
| Pipe joint | Wet joint, drops | Aged O-ring or washer |
| Housing | Crack or seep on the casting | Impact, corrosion |
| Reservoir and hoses | Seep at reservoir or hose joint | Ageing, loose clamp |
Clean the area first, then drive a short distance or turn the wheel and watch; old oil traces mislead.
When a seal repair is reasonable
- Input shaft seal weeping only, with no play, water or noise: a seal repair can be considered.
- Rack end seal leaking and oil in the boot: usually a replacement assembly.
- Play, noise or water damage: replace the assembly.
- Cracked or distorted housing: replace the assembly.
Why stop-leak additives are not recommended
Most manufacturers advise against them: they can swell seals and block passages, hiding the leak while making the long-term problem worse.
After the repair
- Fill with the specified fluid and bleed.
- Align the wheels if the rack or tie rods were disturbed.
- Check boots, clamps and pipe routing.
- Recheck for leaks after a few hundred kilometres.
Before ordering
- Original part number, not just the model.
- LHD or RHD.
- Hydraulic or EPS.
- Variable-ratio or other steering options.
- Pipe connection positions and count.
Common mistakes
- Judging the leak without cleaning.
- Mistaking a pump or hose leak for a rack leak.
- Replacing a split boot without checking the seal inside.
- Refitting without bleeding and alignment.
Send us your chassis number or original part number and we will confirm the reference.